Italian luxury fashion house Prada has acknowledged that its recent Spring Summer 2026 menswear collection featured sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear, its first public response to a controversy that sparked outrage in India and reignited a conversation on what many saw as cultural appropriation.
In response to an ET query, the company said it celebrates craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions. "Prada acknowledges that sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear made in specific districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka, India, were featured in its Men's 2026 Spring Summer show in Milan. We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft. We are in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture on this topic."
The response comes amid backlash on social media and mounting pressure from authorities for failing to acknowledge the Indian artisans and heritage behind the design during the Milan show.
Maharashtra's state-run leather development corporation is weighing action. The Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM), which jointly holds the geographical indication (GI) rights for Kolhapuri chappals with Karnataka's LIDKAR, is evaluating legal options. Maharashtra's industry department is also involved in discussions with LIDCOM, said industry secretary P Anbalagan.
"We are in the process of making some decisions, and legal recourse will certainly be involved," a senior LIDCOM official told ET. "Since the company is based in Italy, we are evaluating the legal options available in this situation. If required, LIDCOM will approach the appropriate channel through India's ministry of commerce."
The controversial open-toed leather sandal showcased by Prada bears a close resemblance to the traditional leather footwear handcrafted for generations in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
While registered proprietors (LIDCOM and LIDKAR) and authorised users are entitled under Indian law to institute legal proceedings within India, cross-border legal protection is presently not available for GI marks.
Ethical Implications
Proprietors can increase protection by registering the name/logo as a trademark in other jurisdictions, said IP lawyer Priyanka Khimani.
A Maharashtra government official said: "Prima facie, a vendor should not be using GI-registered name, logo, or invoicing product under GI identity".
Kolhapuri chappals were granted GI status on December 11, 2018, covering eight districts-four each in Maharashtra and Karnataka. Despite the scale of the craft industry, only 95 artisans have registered as authorised GI users. "There is a lack of awareness about what GI registration offers," said the official who works with the state's industries department.
Legal experts said India's GI laws protect against unauthorised commercial use of a registered product's name or implied origin-but not design mimicry alone. "Borrowing the style without using the GI name in trade does not necessarily violate GI provisions," said Khimani. "Unless Prada markets or sells these sandals using the word 'Kolhapuri' or implies a link to Kolhapur's craftsmanship, there is no legal recourse."
However, Khimani said the ethical implications are clear. "There is a responsibility on international fashion houses to acknowledge the cultural heritage they borrow from. It would be meaningful for both brands and artisans if there was transparent commercial collaboration and due credit."
Institutions like Nabard offer support and in post-GI registration activities such as artisan enrollment and marketing workshops; state-level follow-through can help achieve these outcomes. Khimani says GI-registered proprietors could bolster global protections by registering associated marks and names as trademarks overseas. In the case of 'Darjeeling Tea', the Tea Board has registered marks relating to the GI in various countries as a trademark/certification trademark.
In response to an ET query, the company said it celebrates craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions. "Prada acknowledges that sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear made in specific districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka, India, were featured in its Men's 2026 Spring Summer show in Milan. We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft. We are in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture on this topic."
The response comes amid backlash on social media and mounting pressure from authorities for failing to acknowledge the Indian artisans and heritage behind the design during the Milan show.
Maharashtra's state-run leather development corporation is weighing action. The Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM), which jointly holds the geographical indication (GI) rights for Kolhapuri chappals with Karnataka's LIDKAR, is evaluating legal options. Maharashtra's industry department is also involved in discussions with LIDCOM, said industry secretary P Anbalagan.
"We are in the process of making some decisions, and legal recourse will certainly be involved," a senior LIDCOM official told ET. "Since the company is based in Italy, we are evaluating the legal options available in this situation. If required, LIDCOM will approach the appropriate channel through India's ministry of commerce."
The controversial open-toed leather sandal showcased by Prada bears a close resemblance to the traditional leather footwear handcrafted for generations in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
While registered proprietors (LIDCOM and LIDKAR) and authorised users are entitled under Indian law to institute legal proceedings within India, cross-border legal protection is presently not available for GI marks.
Ethical Implications
Proprietors can increase protection by registering the name/logo as a trademark in other jurisdictions, said IP lawyer Priyanka Khimani.
A Maharashtra government official said: "Prima facie, a vendor should not be using GI-registered name, logo, or invoicing product under GI identity".
Kolhapuri chappals were granted GI status on December 11, 2018, covering eight districts-four each in Maharashtra and Karnataka. Despite the scale of the craft industry, only 95 artisans have registered as authorised GI users. "There is a lack of awareness about what GI registration offers," said the official who works with the state's industries department.
Legal experts said India's GI laws protect against unauthorised commercial use of a registered product's name or implied origin-but not design mimicry alone. "Borrowing the style without using the GI name in trade does not necessarily violate GI provisions," said Khimani. "Unless Prada markets or sells these sandals using the word 'Kolhapuri' or implies a link to Kolhapur's craftsmanship, there is no legal recourse."
However, Khimani said the ethical implications are clear. "There is a responsibility on international fashion houses to acknowledge the cultural heritage they borrow from. It would be meaningful for both brands and artisans if there was transparent commercial collaboration and due credit."
Institutions like Nabard offer support and in post-GI registration activities such as artisan enrollment and marketing workshops; state-level follow-through can help achieve these outcomes. Khimani says GI-registered proprietors could bolster global protections by registering associated marks and names as trademarks overseas. In the case of 'Darjeeling Tea', the Tea Board has registered marks relating to the GI in various countries as a trademark/certification trademark.
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